Pump Repair Procedure
Old Bearing Removal:
There are two methods of removing the old carbon bearings. Available
facilities and personal preference determine which method should
be used.
Bearing Puller
Method:
Purchase from Snap-on Tool Corp. The blind hole bearing puller
parts. Loosely assemble too, push collet through to the bottom
of the bearing to be removed. The jaws of the collet will expand
to grip the bearing by hand tightening the collet on the expanding
rod. Position the assembly so the flange surface is supported,
and the weight of the puller is down. By raising the slide hammer
and slamming down, the bearing will be removed with several strokes.
Repeat procedure for remaining bearings.
Chip-out Method:
Using a small chisel or screw driver, the bearings can be chipped
away in small pieces because of their brittleness. Caution: do
not mark or damage bearing bore with chisel.
New Bearing Insertion:
Clean out all four bearing bores very carefully. Press new bearing
in place with color-coded end (unground end) down towards the
bottom of the blind hole. Use either a homemade pusher or the
old shaft/gear assembly and a small arbor press for this operation.
If a press is not available, the moving jaws of a vise can be
used. The least desirable method is pounding the bearings in place
with a hammer on top of the pusher. Bearings may crack or chip
easily from hammer blows. When in place, bearings must be flush
with their respective casting surfaces, neither above or below.
Restoring Cover Surface:
Rub cover on a piece of fine grit emery cloth on top of a flat
metal plate until most or all of the wear marks have disappeared.
Caution: apply even pressure so that sanded surface remains flat
and at right angles to the bearing holes.
Restoring Pump Body:
As explained under "Before Repair Inspection", nothing
can be done to restore lost metal on the inside diameter of the
body bore (gear chamber). If bottom of body is worn (straight
edge test with gears), the body depth can be made shallower by
rubbing down the flange surface in the same manner as the cover
surface (explained above). Again, proceed cautiously in order
to keep flange parallel to bottom face. Match body depth to gar
width (straight edge test across gears). Running clearance will
be achieved with gaskets on assembly.
Seal or Packing Replacement:
If pump is equipped with a lip seal, it should be replaced with
a new seal at this point. Use a screwdriver to pry out of the
pump body, press new seal in the same place. Note that lettering
on seal casing must be on outside of pump, garter spring and lip
facing the inside of the pump. If pump is equipped with a packing
type seal (stuffing box), replacement of the two asbestos-graphite
rings is done easiest after conclusion of pump assembly.
Re-assembly of Pump:
Insert shafts and gears into pump body. Rub a thin film of grease
on flange. Set cover in place and bolt cover onto body with cover
screws. While tightening screws, check drive shaft and gears for
free rotation. If gears are binding after screws are tightened,
it may be necessary to add another gasket between cover and body.
Do not add gasket unnecessarily as pump performance will suffer
from excessive internal clearance. Replace packing rings (if applicable)
as mentioned above.
